
Mutalau
sea track and Reef Flats
Mutalau
district and
Uluvehi Reef are located at the extreme North of Niue. It is considered a
historic place where in 1846 Peniamina Nukai
came back to Niue from Samoa to introduce Christianity
among Niueans. From Mutalau, Perniamina propagated the
religion village to village until reaching the South. It
ended years of disputes and internal wars between Niueans
of different villages. Mutalau was also an important point
of departure and arrival to overseas Island such as Samoa
and the Cook islands. From there many produces passed to
be sold in these Islands and most of the plants and fruits
you see on the Island today came to Niue from this port.
(It is not a port at all, just a reef flat with very
dangerous waves breaking on it).
The
access is very easy
because you can drive your car almost to the end of the
reef flat. From the main road that circles the Island, there is a
sign pointing to the village. After you enter the village,
just keep left and follow the gravel road. Near it's end
you'll be surrounded by coconut palms (photo). At the very
end, a wide concrete road leads the way to the reef flat.
Park your car under the large tree (for shade) just before
the concrete road starts. From there, all you have to do
is walk in very easy inclination to the point where they
keep the outrigger canoes. From the car park to this point
it is not more than a 6 minutes walk. You'll arrive at a
place where concrete stairs gives access to the reef flats
(larger photo on the top of this page).
From
ancient times the
inhabitants of Mutalau keep their outrigger canoes inside
small natural caves in the cliffs face. There are about 3
of these caves, some empty and one with four or five canoes.
The caves are high enough to keep the canoes safe in case
of huge swells. To enter the sea, seamen must carry the canoes
stairs down for about 30
metres until they reach the reef flat. The sea and winds
are much stronger in this side of the Island and fishing
can only be done in very calm conditions. Due to the
breeze that blows constantly, the trees grow up with their
foliage bended to the predominant side of the wind.
Another
thing that grabed our attention in Mutalau was the degree of difficulty they must face
to launch their canoes into the sea. When we were there,
even being an experienced surfer, I saw no way
to pass the waves breaking over the reef without things
ending in disaster. The waves that day were much bigger than
at any
other side of the island, and as I found out later, the sea
there is like that most times of the year. Note that they
have to enter the sea by passing waves breaking on a very
shallow reef platform and paddle as much as possible to
evict to be "caught inside" by the next wave. If
that happens, I can imagine a situation of life or death,
where the canoe will be thrown over the reef for the
suction of the next wave suck it into the belly of the
next wave. Pretty Heavy stuff, I think.
Well,
there is not much else to talk about Mutalau,
and there is not another attraction in the area except Ulupehi itself,
anyway, the place is very beautiful and very pleasant to
be in. The views are gorgeous and the winds were very refreshing. If
you're doing a round the Island tour, Mutalau is a nice
place to stop by and have a picnic. We made
sandwiches and took juice and cups to all activities we did in
Niue. Remember, there are no places to buy anything when
you cruising around the Island except in Alofi
and one or two other places.
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A
different track from the parking area takes you to this
lookout, but there is no access to the reef. (the
track was in very bad shape and I do not recommend
going there). On this track we found
nice tree branches on the ground almost ready to
become a
walking stick which we used during our entire
stay. |
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